No vehicle right now, so I need to see if I actually have a view. I have a compass that I have already set thedeclination for true north, so I should be ok for both initial true north and also aligning for the milky way in the south. I hope to go out tonight and try for my first milky way picture. I actually have read articles where people have said they do their initial siting over the hotshoe itself. I know that I would be very cautious to overflights when in use, but I just don't want to take the chance of accidently blinding a pilot. I also felt uncomfortable with the solution as there are fairly low overhead flight paths in my area, so one would have to keep a close watch.Įdited by otoien, 24 July 2022 - 09:30 PM. I learned from searching that blue lasers can withstand low temperatures better, but I gave up the idea and went with the red dot sight. I tried to insulate it but it was not enough. It was not the battery, but the direct temperature effect on the green laser diode, which is a known issue. Since laser pointers were mentioned, that was actually my first approach, but I quickly discovered that the green laser pointer only lasted for a couple of minutes in the cold. Add a couple of TCs to it though and one definitely would want to attach the rig via the tripod collar and use an L-bracket for the red dot sight or modify the tripod collar to add a second camera plate for the red dot sight. Yes, for heavier/physically longer lenses the collar needs to be reserved for mounting the rig via the lens, but the Nikon 300 mm PF is so lightweight and short that the rig actually balances better mounted via the camera bracket when aiming high. Otherwise just mount it under the camera.Įdited by vidrazor, 24 July 2022 - 10:35 AM. Mounting the L-bracket under the lens allows for better Z axis balancing as well, if needed. Better to mount it on the lens and use an L-bracket on the body or under the lens mount to mount the sight aid. Mounting your rig on the camera with a long lens has it's own complications however. Yep, for some reason the rotational slop is not apparent to some. When I get more time I might make a 90° mount for my L-bracket too for use with other lenses that do not have a collar.Įdited by otoien, 24 July 2022 - 12:57 AM. Opposed to the hot shoe, an Arca-Swiss compatible bracket will not have any play and always be precisely aligned because of the way it is clamps the plate. I planned to machine a hot shoe attachment that was precisely fitting the hot shoe without play for the specific camera being used, but went instead for mounting to the foot of the lens collar with a bracket as shown above. Once tightened down it would keep in position, but it was easy to bump it so that it came out of alignment. So for every use I had to aim the lens at a bright star and align the red dot sight to it. But the alignment to the hot shoe was not precise enough, as there was some initial play. So this seems different than magnifying a small part of the sky as with the finder scope to precisely aim the rig, but perhaps not showing the same overview?Īs noted above I initially had my red dot sight mounted to the hot shoe, and that with an arrangement that could be tightened down as shown in Iamhondo's post. Thus it will provide an overview facilitating "star hopping", with some degree of precision at where the camera is aimed, provided that a precise mounting method is used. A red dot sight will just project a virtual image of the red dot into what you see with your bare eye, slightly dimmed because of the curved semi-transparent mirror, maintains the eye's natural focus on the stars at no magnification and allowing viewing the area outside the finder with the same eye. Looking it up (I have no personal experience), it seems that 9x magnification and 5-6° field of view is pretty typical. It seems to me that finder scopes are providing different functionality than red dot sights.
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